Palm Springs
As we wintered just outside of Joshua Tree NP, we were able to spend a bit of time in a little oasis in the desert known as Palm Springs. With a long history of famous celebrity residents, lots of local hiking, and a sprawling foodie scene, we found this resort city the perfect way to beat the winter blues.
First and foremost, Palm Springs is a resort city. The area became a fashionable getaway in the 1900s, with major movie stars building residences in the 1930s. Natural hot springs and dry desert conditions helped this town attract health tourists that required dry heat, while casinos and a thriving night club scene cemented this area as a popular getaway for those who could afford it. Bob Hope, Frank Sinatra, Estée Lauder, Carmen Miranda and Bing Crosby are just a few of the celebrities who built homes here; actor and former mayor Frank Bogert bought his home for $16,000 and lived here for more than 50 years.
Photo: Bear Journal
While you may not care about the long history of famous celebrities, politicians, and business folk living in this area, you can be sure their influence is still just as prevalent today as it was in the early 1900s, with Palm Springs continuing to hold the title of modernism capital of the world. It was commissions from the stars that allowed architectural modernists to flourish and explore with architectural innovations, new artistic venues, all while boasting and an exotic “back-to-the-land" experience for the rich and famous. As Wills, Eric noted in an article titled "Palm Springs Eternal", Preservation, Vol. 60, Issue 3, pp. 38–45 “Inventive architects designed unique vacation houses, such as steel houses with prefabricated panels and folding roofs, a glass-and-steel house in a boulder-strewn landscape, and a carousel house that turned to avoid the sun's glare.” And it’s not just the architecture that makes Palm Springs the modernism capital of the world; from the cocktails to the clothes, the pools to the supper clubs, there is something about Palm Springs that feels like it never really left the 50’s.
Murray Hill
And with all this said, trying to take your toddlers on a walking tour of the city to view interesting architecture built by movie stars they don’t know was not our most favorite activity. Located in the Coachella Valley desert region, Palm Springs is sheltered by the San Bernardino Mountains to the north, the Santa Rosa Mountains to the south, by the San Jacinto Mountains to the west and by the Little San Bernardino Mountains to the east – in other words, great hiking opportunities for this outdoor oriented family! Hiking to the summit of Murray Hill was easily our favorite go-to hike from the many trails that seemed to start all over the place: behind grocery stores, in-between houses, off random dirt roads. It was fun to find a new trail leading through an area known to locals as “The Goats” and certainly worth the climb as often we hiked 2000+ ft in elevation gain to reach the summit.
Mt San Jacinto State Park was another favorite of ours with the hike up to Suicide Rock offering great views of Strawberry Valley, a bit of snow (in the desert?? What?!?), and of course the lovely San Jacinto Mountains. The North and South Lykken trails in the San Bernadino National Forest were another set of favorites offering phenomenal views of the greater Palm Springs area all the while climbing thousands of feet up and into a secluded canyon. These more mountainous hikes offered a great juxtaposition to the vast openness of the Sonoran desert we were experiencing in Joshua Tree, which truly offered great relief to our little family who had skipped our more traditional snowy mountain winter in favor of four months of desert exploration.
Of course when we got the itch for a weekend away from the heat, it was just a hop, jump and a skip to Lake Arrowhead and Big Bear Lake. Lake Arrowhead, commonly referred to as the “Alps of Southern California” is a stunningly beautiful quaint mountain town that we enjoyed with a sunset picnic in MacKay Park overlooking the lake while the kids enjoyed the large playground and rock climbing wall. Be aware that this is a private lake community, and there is no public access to the lake (which we sadly learned after we arrived....).
Big Bear on the other hand was a full weekend retreat from the desert for us, complete with a stay in a mountain lodge, and our 5-yr old summitting his first peak! While Big Bear is SoCals largest recreation lake, the water was a bit too cold in Nov for kayaking, however we did several hikes as a family that will absolutely be remembered in the years to come.
While the desert is not our favorite, it certainly wasn’t dry and dusty all the time. In lieu of snow, the warm winter temperatures allowed for fun dinners poolside and warm hot spring family swims at night. Instead of hot cocoa by the fire, we had cactus cocktails and stargazing. The campsite we stayed at had weekly kids movies under the stars, and the glam of Palm Springs helped us ring in the new year with some delicious SoCal food (I will include a list of our favorites at the bottom of this post). This, like so many experiences on this trip, continue to reinforce how fortunate we feel to view the United States thru so many different lenses; to create so many unique and interesting family moments; to learn more about the history of this incredible country.
Must-Try Restaurants:
The Rooster and the Pig
The brain child of chef Tai Spendley, Rooster and the Pig offers a forward-thinking menu that blends influences from France, Asia and California into a seamlessly delicious design. While menu items change frequently and remain faithful to a diverse selection, the concept of plates made to share is a constant at this well-loved establishment. Spendley aims for a restaurant atmosphere that offers up fare inspired by international travels while maintaining a sense of family-style dining. While it’s titled a Vietnamese-American restaurant, those who love this location will often rave that it brings flavors that go well beyond those two boarders.
Sandfish Sushi and Whiskey
Within its Scandinavian designed interior, you’ll enjoy a judicious selection of hand-crafted, award winning sushi along with whiskey pairings, making Sandfish an ideal destination for both epicures and the curious. Chef Engin Onural is considered one of the top 30 sushi chefs in the world after qualifying for the annual World Sushi Cup in Japan, so you can be sure your experience will be top notch.
Tac/Quila
From the owner: Tac/Quila is our made up word for combining gourmet Jalisco style cuisine with specialty tequilas and mezcals, in an effort to transport our guests south of the border and into a culture rich in flavor, color, art, and authenticity. Our goal is to bring you authentic cuisine, crafted by experienced chefs, passionate about exposing you to the best Mexico has to offer. We believe your experience at Tac/Quila should involve the highest quality ingredients, the best possible people, and a rich, inviting ambiance, that reflects the heart and soul of Mexico.
Birba
Birba has quickly become the nighttime darling of downtown Palm Springs. Highly praised for their take on classic Italian pizza and hand crafted cocktail, the menu also features innovative weekly dinner specials, delicate salads, braised meats and homemade desserts. Vibrant, current and design chic, you can enjoy outdoor fire pits, music, hand crafted cocktails and an eclectic crowd all served under the sexy desert sky.
